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Guides/How to Increase Water Pressure

How to Increase Water Pressure: 7 Fixes That Work

Low water pressure makes showers feel like a drizzle and slows everything from washing dishes to filling the tub. Here's how to diagnose the cause and fix it — most solutions take under an hour and cost nothing or nearly nothing.

15 min – 1 hour
$0–$50 (most DIY fixes free)
DIY-friendly (some cases need a plumber)

Quick Diagnosis: Where Is the Low Pressure?

One faucet only
Clogged aerator or cartridge. Clean or replace the aerator tip ($2).
Hot water only
Water heater issue — sediment buildup or kinked flex line. Flush the heater.
Whole house
Main shutoff valve, PRV, water leak, or galvanized pipes. Start with the shutoff valve.

Step-by-Step Fixes

1

Measure your actual pressure first

Screw a pressure gauge (available at any hardware store for $10–$15) onto a hose bib or laundry hookup. Turn the water on fully. Normal is 40–80 PSI. Below 40 is low; above 80 is dangerously high. Write down the number before you change anything.

2

Check that the main shutoff valve is fully open

This is the most commonly missed cause. Find your main shutoff where the water line enters your home (basement, utility closet, or near the water meter).

  • Ball valve (lever): Handle must be parallel to the pipe. Perpendicular = off. Even 10° off-parallel restricts flow.
  • Gate valve (round wheel): Turn counterclockwise until it stops — don't stop early.
3

Adjust the pressure reducing valve (PRV)

Most homes built after 1960 have a PRV — a bell-shaped valve on the main water line near the shutoff, factory-set to 50–60 PSI.

  1. Loosen the lock nut on top with an adjustable wrench
  2. Turn the adjustment screw clockwise to increase pressure
  3. Make small adjustments — 1/4 turn at a time
  4. Recheck your gauge after each adjustment
  5. Set no higher than 75 PSI

If turning the screw does nothing, the PRV diaphragm is worn. Replace the valve ($200–$600 installed by a plumber).

4

Clean clogged aerators and showerheads

If pressure is low at just one or two fixtures, mineral buildup is the culprit.

Faucet aerator
  1. Unscrew the tip counterclockwise
  2. Remove screen, washer, flow restrictor
  3. Soak in white vinegar 30 minutes
  4. Rinse and reassemble
Showerhead
  1. Fill a zip-lock bag with white vinegar
  2. Submerge showerhead in bag
  3. Secure with rubber band overnight
  4. Run water for 1 minute to rinse
5

Test for hidden water leaks

A leak anywhere in your system constantly diverts water and reduces pressure everywhere.

  1. Turn off every faucet, appliance, and the ice maker
  2. Go to your water meter and read the dial
  3. Wait 15 minutes without using water
  4. Read the meter again — if the needle moved, you have a leak

Check under sinks, around toilet bases, under the water heater, and along exposed pipes for wet spots or white mineral stains (signs of a slow drip).

6

Check for corroded galvanized pipes

Homes built before 1970 often have galvanized steel pipes that corrode from the inside, narrowing the diameter over decades. Signs: reddish-brown water when you first turn on the tap, pressure that has gotten slowly worse over years, or pressure that is much lower at fixtures far from the meter. Cleaning aerators and adjusting the PRV will not fix galvanized pipe corrosion — repiping with copper or PEX is the only permanent fix.

7

Contact your water utility

If your gauge shows low pressure right at the meter — before any valve in your home — the problem is upstream. Call your water utility. They are responsible for maintaining adequate pressure to the meter (typically 40–60 PSI) and may send a technician at no charge.

When to Call a Plumber

  • Main shutoff is fully open but whole-house pressure is still below 40 PSI
  • Adjusting the PRV screw has no effect on measured pressure
  • Your home has galvanized pipes and pressure has gotten worse over years
  • Your meter shows a leak but you cannot find the source
  • Pressure drops severely when two fixtures run at the same time (undersized supply line)

Frequently Asked Questions

What is normal water pressure for a house?

Normal residential water pressure is 40–80 PSI. Most plumbers recommend 50–60 PSI as the sweet spot. Below 40 PSI is noticeably weak. Above 80 PSI stresses pipes and appliances.

Why is my water pressure suddenly low?

Sudden whole-house low pressure usually means: a shutoff valve was partially turned (check if any recent repairs were done), a pipe broke somewhere, or your water utility has a main line issue. If just one fixture lost pressure suddenly, the aerator or cartridge at that fixture is clogged.

How much does a PRV replacement cost?

A PRV part costs $50–$200. Professional installation adds $150–$400 in labor, for a total of $200–$600. PRVs typically last 10–15 years. If yours is old and no longer adjustable, replacing it protects every appliance in your home.

Can a clogged aerator cause low water pressure?

Yes, but only at that specific faucet. Aerators catch mineral deposits and get clogged over time, especially in hard-water areas. If pressure is fine everywhere else but weak at one tap, unscrew the aerator, clean it in vinegar, and pressure returns immediately. Replacement aerators cost $2–$5.

Problem Bigger Than a DIY Fix?

If you need to adjust a PRV, repipe galvanized pipes, or find a hidden leak, a licensed plumber can diagnose it in one visit.

Find a Plumber Near You

Michigan Homeowners Also Ask

How do I increase water pressure in my Michigan home?

Low water pressure in Michigan homes is most often caused by corroded galvanized pipes (common in pre-1980 homes), a partially closed main shutoff valve, a failing pressure regulator, or municipal supply issues. Check the main valve first — it must be fully open. A plumber can test and replace a faulty pressure regulator ($200–$400 installed) or diagnose pipe corrosion requiring repiping.