How to Fix a Dripping Faucet: By Faucet Type

A faucet dripping at just one drip per second wastes more than 3,000 gallons of water per year, according to the EPA. Nationwide, household faucet leaks waste more than 1 trillion gallons annually — equal to the annual water use of over 11 million homes. Most dripping faucets can be fixed for under $25 in parts and an hour of your time.

The key is identifying your faucet type first. Each type fails in a different way and requires different parts.

Step 0: Before You Start

For any faucet repair:

1. Turn off the supply valves under the sink (clockwise to close)
2. Turn on the faucet to release remaining pressure and water
3. Plug the drain — small parts like screws and O-rings love drains
4. Take photos before disassembly so you know how it goes back together

Faucet Type 1: Compression Faucet

How to identify: Two handles (hot and cold) that you turn fully clockwise to shut off, counterclockwise to open. The oldest design — common in homes built before 1980 and utility sinks.

What wears out: The rubber washer at the bottom of the stem, held in place by a brass screw. After thousands of uses, the washer compresses unevenly and stops sealing.

Fix:

1. Remove the handle (usually held by a screw under the decorative cap)
2. Use an adjustable wrench to unscrew the packing nut
3. Pull out the stem
4. Unscrew the brass screw at the bottom and replace the rubber washer with an exact match (bring the old one to the hardware store — sizes vary)
5. Also replace the O-ring around the stem if it's worn
6. Reassemble, restore water, and test

Parts cost: $2–$5 in washers and O-rings.

Faucet Type 2: Ball Faucet

How to identify: Single handle that rotates over a rounded cap — you adjust temperature and flow by moving the handle in a sphere. Common on kitchen sinks (Delta, Peerless brands).

What wears out: The springs, rubber inlet seats, and O-rings inside the ball mechanism. The ball itself may also wear.

Fix: Purchase a ball faucet repair kit for your brand ($10–$25 at hardware stores). These kits include all the parts you need.

1. Remove the handle by lifting the index cap (usually pries off) and unscrewing the screw beneath
2. Unscrew the cap and collar
3. Remove the ball mechanism and springs with needle-nose pliers
4. Replace the springs, seats, and O-rings from the kit — do all of them while you're in there
5. If the ball itself is notched or worn, replace it too (included in the kit)
6. Reassemble in reverse order

Parts cost: $10–$25 for a brand-specific kit.

Faucet Type 3: Cartridge Faucet

How to identify: Single or double handle with smooth, quarter-turn to half-turn operation. Doesn't require much turning force. Most modern faucets (Moen, American Standard, Pfister).

What wears out: The cartridge — a plastic or rubber cylinder that controls both temperature and flow. When it wears, it lets water bypass the seal and drip.

Fix:

1. Remove the handle (usually a screw under the decorative cap or behind the handle)
2. You may see a retaining clip or nut holding the cartridge — remove it
3. Grip the cartridge with pliers and pull it straight out
4. Take the old cartridge to the hardware store — you need an exact match by brand and model (Moen, Delta, Kohler cartridges are not interchangeable)
5. Insert the new cartridge in the same orientation (usually has a tab or flat side to align it)
6. Replace the retaining clip, reassemble, test

Parts cost: $10–$60 depending on brand (Moen cartridges run $15–$25; Kohler and Delta can run $20–$50).

Moen protip: Moen offers a lifetime warranty on cartridges. Call 1-800-BUY-MOEN and they'll often send a free replacement cartridge.

Faucet Type 4: Ceramic Disc Faucet

How to identify: Single wide lever on a cylindrical body — premium look. Common in higher-end faucets (Grohe, Kohler). Very durable; actual disc failure is rare.

What usually goes wrong: Mineral deposits clog the ceramic inlet ports, restricting flow and causing erratic spraying or reduced pressure rather than true dripping.

Fix:

1. Remove the handle and unscrew the cylinder cartridge
2. Lift out the ceramic disc assembly
3. Soak it in white vinegar for 1–2 hours to dissolve mineral buildup
4. Gently scrub with a soft brush (never abrasive — ceramic discs scratch easily)
5. Rinse, reinstall, test

If the disc is visibly cracked: replace the disc assembly. Ceramic disc cartridges cost $10–$30.

When to Replace Instead of Repair

Consider replacing the entire faucet (not just the internal parts) when:

• The faucet body is cracked, corroded, or showing through-metal pitting
• The finish is worn to bare metal
• The faucet is over 15–20 years old with repeated failures
• Repair parts cost more than 40–50% of a new faucet

New mid-range kitchen faucets run $150–$350; bathroom faucets $80–$250. Professional installation adds $100–$250.

When to Call a Plumber

Call a licensed plumber if the supply valves under the sink won't close (they can crack if forced), if there's corrosion at the supply line connections, or if the faucet is a shower or tub valve that requires wall access.

Professional faucet repair cost: $125–$350 on average (Angi, 2026; HomeAdvisor, 2025).

Key Takeaways

• Identify your faucet type first — each type has different parts and a different repair approach
• Compression: replace the rubber washer ($2–$5 in parts)
• Ball: use a brand-specific repair kit ($10–$25)
• Cartridge: pull and match the cartridge at the hardware store ($10–$60)
• Ceramic disc: soak in vinegar to clear mineral deposits; replace disc only if cracked
• Replace the whole faucet if it's over 15 years old or the body is damaged